Meet me in Montagu
First published in Sunday Times, October 2019
The church is a stone’s throw from Montagu Country Hotel
In Discovering Southern Africa the South African travel and history writer T.V. Bulpin (1918-1999) described Montagu in the 1960’s as “graced with several Cape-Dutch style buildings, a museum and the hot springs”. He carries on to say that “Lovers’ Walk between Montagu and the hot springs … is a pleasant, easy stroll, especially at sunset when the birds are tucking themselves into bed with a last twitter as some hen nags her mate for coming in a trifle late”.
Montagu has lost none of that allure. The town was established after travellers used the area as a staging post where they rested their horses after coming through Cogmans Kloof or going into the Little Karoo. In the mid-1800s the first erven were laid out on the farm Uitvlugt and the town was named after Sir John Montagu, a colonial secretary at the time.
Gabled Cape-Dutch homes and quaint white cottages with forest green shutters and doors still dot the streets. Since 1975 the museum is housed in three buildings, the Old Mission Church, Joubert House and the KWV Building. The exhibition of pulpit Bibles and old wedding dresses at the Old Mission Church are fascinating to see. The church still has its original pulpit and antependium (pulpit cloth). Other exhibitions include an Indigenous Medicinal Plant Research Project and a collection of cartoons by T.O. Honiball (1905-1990), a well-known South African cartoon artist.
Montagu is pedestrian-friendly wherever you go.
Not in the mood for walking? Former journalist Marchelle van Zyl at Flying Feet (look on Facebook) in Bath Street offers guided bicycle tours through Montagu. Each bicycle has been hand-painted by a different artist, most of which are local. They are ‘nothing fancy – just wheels’, Marchelle says.
Flying Feet is the runner-up entrepreneur in the 2019 Mayoral Tourism Awards of the Cape Winelands District Municipality. Guided tours focus on the history of and attractions in Montagu, the heritage and the art (galleries). You could also rent a bike without taking part in a tour and they have a gift shop too. Most items are sourced locally. Look out for the quirky wooden bow ties.
Want to feel like royalty? Practice your queenly wave; then book a trip in an American Dream Car (www.capecountryroutes.com/pages/american-dream-cars-2/), starting at the Montagu Country Hotel. Choose between a chauffeur-driven sapphire blue 1956 DeSoto Fireflite Sportsman, a powder blue 1956 or a chilli red 1964 Cadillac Sedan DeVille. Rates are calculated per hour and up to four people can be accommodated.
Montagu Country Hotel (www.montagucountryhotel.co.za), a member of Cape Country Routes, is the only original art deco hotel in South Africa. It’s filled with a superb collection of art deco furniture, ornaments and art.
The original hotel was built in 1875. The hotel building burnt down but was rebuilt in 1922. It is rumoured that Paul Kruger once wanted to stay over at the Montagu Country Hotel but was shown the door due to his political affiliation.
At The Wild Apricot restaurant at the Montagu Country Hotel you dine by candle light whilst the tinkling of a baby grand piano in the background adds even more atmosphere. The slow-cooked lamb shank served on mashed potatoes is simply outstanding. The starter combination of oriental duck spring roll and roasted pork belly served with pecan nut, pear and date chutney also caught my eye.
Hardly more than a stone’s throw away the award-winning Mimosa’s Restaurant at Mimosa Lodge (www.mimosa.co.za) offers fine dining with dishes such as a starter of seared sesame-crusted salmon served with a pineapple, ginger and palm heart salad or a main course of beef sirloin with a honey and bay leaf jus, French-style potatoes and seasonal vegetables.
From the stoep of Mimosa Lodge you can see the Dutch Reformed Church at the top of Church Street. This neo-Gothic building with seating for 1000 church-goers was consecrated in 1862. To view the inside of the church, contact the tourism bureau or join the congregation on a Sunday.
The tourism bureau’s historical walk pamphlet, also available online, is invaluable to anyone who wants to explore the streets of Montagu. It has lovely snippets of information including the tale of Mr Danie van der Merwe who insisted that he would sell his property, a green gabled house next to the bank, on condition that he gets the job as bank manager. He was duly appointed as bank manager and thereafter he became known as ‘Danie Bank’. It turned out that he was not very good at his job and the bank went under.
Once you have worked up a thirst whilst strolling around town head to The Rambling Rose (look on Facebook) for a local or Mozambican beer. They also serve an all-day breakfast and a lunch buffet on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Since Bulpin’s time Montagu has been known for its fruit, mainly pears, apricots and peaches, and wine. Whilst you are here stock up on dried fruit, nuts and seeds from Montagu Trusted Quality Snacks at the Die Kloof Padstal.
Not to be missed is wine tasting on one, or more, of the wine farms in the Montagu valley or at The Wine Boutique in the centre of town.
The Montagu Book Shop
Montagu is conveniently situated to explore all that Route 62 (www.route62.co.za) has on offer. This scenic route stretches all the way to Port Elizabeth. Robertson is a mere 30 minutes’ drive from Montagu and it takes 40 minutes to get to Barrydale, both of which are towns worth exploring too.
* * * Where to see more art deco architecture in South Africa * * *
- Durban is viewed by some as the art deco capital of South Africa. In Durban Althea Court in 109 Snell Parade, the Protea Hotel by Marriott Durban Edward on 149 O.R. Tambo Parade, South Beach and Pixley House at 396 Dr Pixley Kaseme Street are prime examples of art deco architecture. Go on a virtual tour of Durban’s art deco heritage: durbandeco.org.za
- According to the Springs Advertiser, Springs has the second biggest collection of art deco buildings in the world, after Miami, Florida, USA.
In Springs pay a visit to the Springs Central Fire Station on the R29 at Geduld, Manitoba House on 3rd Street and Jossette Towers on the corner of 6th Avenue and 3rd Street.
- The central business districts of Cape Town, Paarl, Port Elizabeth and Johannesburg also have many art deco gems though some are in a state of disrepair.
- Fine examples of art deco architecture in Cape Town include the Mutual Heights building on the corner of Darling and Parliament Streets, and Namaqua House and Market House on Green Market Square.
- Two notable art deco buildings in Paarl are La Rochelle High School Hostel in Faure Street and the old Picardi Hotel at 158 Main Road.
- In Port Elizabeth visit the GFI Art Gallery, 30 Park Drive, Central and Mantis No5 Boutique Art Hotel, 5 Brighton Drive, Summerstrand.
- In Johannesburg the most famous art deco building is probably Ansteys Building on the corner of Jeppe and Joubert Street. Also have a look at Astor Mansions on the corner of Jeppe and Von Brandis Street and Dorchester Mansions at 75 Rissik Street.
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